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Eduardo And Roberta Soares Pereira

Cerrado Mineiro, Carmo do Paranaíba, Brazil
Partner since: 2023 Traceable to: Single Estate Varietals: Paraíso
Processing:

Late harvest cherries were selected, floated, then laid out in long thin rows to ferment for 60 hours, after which the coffee was slowly dried, in thick 40 cm rows, and turned carefully over a period of 24 days before resting for 45 days prior to milling.

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Community Context

Eduardo and Roberta Soares Periera own one of the biggest coffee nurseries in Brazil and is locally famous for developing cutting edge cultivars. They do quality mapping across processing styles, and win regional awards for their success in the cup. For the 2023 harvest, Eduardo and Roberta built a shade-covered patio to slow down the coffee drying process aiming for a longer shelf life as well as experimenting with using wild yeasts cultured from the farm, converting their production to equiment that uses less water in an effort to preserve wild microflora on the outside of coffee cherry.

Country Context

Brazil is to other coffee-growing countries as Jupiter is to other planets – huge, and deserving a category of its own. But despite its size, we don’t look to Brazil as a source of specialty; we were once told that asking for a sample of SSFC 17/18 is like asking for a sample of a ‘big mac’.

This, however, is an old view from an older generation. We now have a younger crop of farmers entering the specialty scene – this generation was raised with the Internet, knows 21st-century coffee, and are excited to find out what’s possible for their family’s farm.

But it’s a struggle to convince parents that this new approach is not just youthful fantasy – with one approach working so well for so long, it’s hard to take specialty seriously. This battle seems to be happening inside households across Brazil, as city-dwelling, college-educated sons and daughters return to the family farm to help their baby-boomer parents prepare for retirement.

Despite this tension, wherever we look we see small successes building a case for specialty, one win at a time. It could be glowing feedback, a good yield, a high price or even just the smallest recognition by someone outside the family. And the case is growing especially strong in the area around Sao Gortado where we find Yuki Minami and Aequitas coffee educating farmers on what they have and what it’s worth. Here we find farmers in their 20s and 30s standing on the shoulders of giants; they are looking near into the future, and see specialty where we in the US have not yet.