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Felipe Estela, El Morito

North - Cajamarca, Peru
Partner since: 2025 Traceable to: 1 Varietals: Pacamara, Caturro Amarillo, Marshell, Bourbon
Supplier Structure:

An individual farmer and member of El Morito, Felipe Estela produces and processes his own coffee on his farm, El Roble, before consolidating for export.

Community Context

Felipe Estela farms at 2000–2100 masl in Cutervo, where he was among the first to establish coffee production. A respected leader, he manages El Morito’s storage warehouses in the region and is known for his reliability and vision. Outside the harvest season, Felipe is developing a guinea pig farm—an example of the resourcefulness that underpins his year-round approach to agriculture.

El Morito began as a multigenerational family project and formalized as an association in 2022. Its leadership team includes Felipe’s nephew David Flores as General Manager and Lenin Flores as quality supervisor—supporting growers like Felipe with coordinated infrastructure and international access.

Country Context

Wedged against both Colombia and Brazil—the giants of South American coffee—Peru’s reputation as a source of high-quality Arabica has never matched that of its neighbors. Coffee arrived in the mid-18th century with Jesuit missionaries, grown mostly for domestic use until the late 1800s. In 1886, the Grace Contract transferred railways and millions of hectares of highland territory to the British in exchange for retiring Peru’s war debts. Much of this land was developed into coffee estates, and exports began in earnest the following year.

Labor came from the indigenous communities of the highlands, who worked plantations through debt bondage or in pursuit of opportunity. When the British withdrew, many of these same families acquired or reclaimed the land, beginning Peru’s smallholder tradition. Agrarian Reform in the 1960s deepened that transition—redistributing estates, organizing campesinos into cooperatives, and making Cusco a center of cooperative-led production. By the 1970s, state-supported cooperatives exported over 80% of Peru’s coffee under the International Coffee Agreement (ICA). With quotas guaranteed, however, many of those coops grew stagnant, marked by inflexibility, nepotism, and corruption.

When the ICA collapsed in 1989, so too did prices and Peru’s export systems. Fujimori-era neoliberal reforms dissolved the Agrarian Bank and left farmers without credit or safety nets. Rural insecurity fueled migration and the violence of the Shining Path conflict, driving many in southern Peru into coca production. Those who remained in coffee often turned to organic and Fair Trade certifications, which didn’t immediately raise cup quality but did raise incomes. Peru grew to become the world’s largest exporter of certified organic coffee—a status it still holds.

Today, specialty production’s focal points stretch up and down the country, with Cajamarca, San Martín, and Amazonas in the north, Junín in the center, and Cusco and Puno in the south. High elevations, diverse microclimates, and traditional plantings of Typica (still over 70%) give Peru remarkable potential, including relatively good supply of high-quality varietals like Gesha taking root after a 1964 FAO mission. Roughly 223,000 smallholders grow coffee on farms averaging under three hectares, yet only a quarter belong to cooperatives—and many of those still struggle with leadership and market alignment.

For these reasons, Peru remains both promising and precarious: a country of immense quality potential, structured around smallholders, but still without sufficient systems to bring the coffees forward. Crop to Cup’s work in Peru focuses on bridging that gap—creating direct connections between producers and quality-driven roasters to build the resilience and recognition that Peru’s coffee deserves.