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Mullugeta Muntasha

Arbegona, Sidama Region, Ethiopia
Partner since: 2022 Traceable to: single farmer Altitude: 2150 MASL Varietals: 74158
Supplier Structure:

Drying station processing coffee from Mullugeta’s own farm as well as neighboring growers in Bursa.

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Community Context

Mullugeta Muntasha grew up in Bursa, a village where coffee cultivation is still relatively new. As a young man, he worked as a truck driver in Arsi, transporting cherry to private washing stations, before later becoming a collector supplying the central market. As climate shifts made coffee more viable in Bursa, and with support from the local agricultural office, planting expanded in the area. In 2021, Mullugeta returned home and established his own drying station, Dawencho.

That very same year, he placed second in the Cup of Excellence with the Dawencho farmer group and sixth under his own name. In 2022, four of the competition’s top ten coffees were processed at Dawencho, including the first-place lot from Legesse Botola, Mullugeta’s brother-in-law. Today, the station processes coffee from Mullugeta’s own farm as well as from neighboring growers, and has become one of the clearest signs of how quickly quality has advanced in this newer coffee-producing area.

Country Context

Ethiopia is a coffee powerhouse. It’s the birthplace of the plant, a top 10 global producer by volume and the largest in Africa, and coffee here is always as culturally central as it is economically vital. Nearly 15 million Ethiopians rely on coffee for income — it represents about 40% of exports and 60% of foreign income. Unsurprisingly, the magnitude of this industry ensures that the government always has a hand in it, with systems shapeshifting with the dynamics of the state.

Proudly never colonized, Ethiopia was long ruled by a Tigrayan-led minority government, until 2018, when mass protests brought Abiy Ahmed to power as the first Oromo president. Oromia, the nation’s largest region and namesake of its largest tribe, sprawls south and west from the capital across much of the country’s coffee heartland.

After an initial period of reform and legislation under Ahmed, the pandemic precipitated a backsliding domino effect: elections planned for 2020 were postponed, but Tigray defiantly held their own regional elections, an action deemed illegal by the federal government, sparking a conflict that escalated into a civil war with a precarious peace agreement not met until the fall of 2022.

Today, buying coffee in Ethiopia happens three ways: through the national auction (the ECX), via Cooperative Unions, or from private farms and out-grower schemes.

* The ECX, launched in 2008 to bring transparency to rural sellers, routes coffee through 55 warehouses where it’s graded and sold in 30-bag contracts. Buyers can’t cup before purchasing, so exporters sometimes allow buyers to cup their own purchases afterward, despite the inability to retain meaningful traceability.

* Coop Unions — organized by geography (Oromia, Sidama, Yirgacheffe, etc.)—aggregate coffee from member societies, split profits with them, and remain the main certified (FTO) channel. Newer players like Kata Maduga have emerged, formed by coops seeking more control over some exceptional lots.

* Private farms and out-grower schemes are the most direct path to traceability, but they’re rare in Ethiopia’s smallholder-heavy landscape—2 hectares are needed for private export eligibility. Larger estates are most common in the west, where land redistribution created bigger blocks. Some mill owners navigate ECX restrictions by registering land as farms, giving them export rights.

Altogether, you have a system that’s constantly shifting—at once bureaucratic and inventive, fragmented yet capable of producing some of the most singular coffees in the world.